When I was a kid, today was the beginning of an 80 hour marathon of my mom’s baking and cooking. For weeks leading up to Easter, Mama would collect as many coffee cans and tomato paste cans as she could accumulate. Holy Thursday morning was a beehive of activity. Mama would start with her Easter sweetbreads. She made 2 kinds. One was a doughy mix, sort of a sweet pizza dough, which she would make in anything that would hold it, mostly cans. The coffee cans would produce the larger sweetbread. You may know it as a pantetoni. Some were made with raisins and some with dried citrus fruit. The ones made in the tomato cans looked like little mushrooms and became Mama’s famous ba-ba-au-rum. These breads would take most of the morning.
In the afternoon, Mama would start making the Easter breads with the eggs. You’ve seen them in the stores sprinkled with candy beads, etc. They may look good in the store but they never taste as good as Mama made them.
By the end of day one, there were at least 100 of these sweetbreads made in varied sizes and shapes. She would say that all her grandkids liked them.

Friday began a whole new round of baking – the Pastiera. This is known to non-Italians as the Easter Grain Pie. Mama would spend most of the day making these. Usually about 15-20 of them. They would look something like this:

Saturday was a day for making sausage breads, pepper breads and the best one of all, the Pizza Rustica

Here’s an easy recipe (Not my Mama’s because she never measured anything and would use whatever meats were available. It didn’t matter because it always tasted good.)
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EASY PIZZA RUSTICA
1 unbaked 9 inch deep dish pie shell
FILLING:
1 1/2 c. Ricotta
3 eggs, beaten
1/4 c. grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 lb. diced combination of several or all of these hams: prosciutto, salami, capocollo, pepperoni
6 oz. diced Mozzarella
Dash of ground pepper
Combine all ingredients and pour into pie shell. Bake at 350 degrees for about 1 hour.
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On Sunday, we would have a feast. The main attraction was a whole baby lamb. But, eating in our house was a marathon and not a sprint. By the time the lamb hit the table, we had already eaten antipasto, lasagna, artichokes and other Italian specialties.

You’re probably asking: what did you do with all those cakes, pies and breads? You gave them away. That’s what I would be doing most of Saturday. I would be sent all over the neighborhood giving these Easter goodies to family and friends.
My Mama passed away in 1993 so these things are just some wonderful memories that always come to mind on Holy Thursday. My sisters are all good cooks and make the Pizza Rustica and Grain Pies very well but not in the quantities Mama made them.
Every year, I buy the breads and pies in a good Italian store but it has yet to match the taste of Mama’s breads and pies.